Before proceeding, I just wish to record that the site has been going for around 8 years now. It does not seem that long! Has it achieved what I wanted it too at outset? Well, yes I suppose it has really – the first challenge being to actually get it up and running with the very limited technical skills I had! Then of course how to operate it! Here I must confess that my old pal Andy helped me greatly over all this. I suppose my one regret is that I have not been able to do as much reviewing or go on as many watch trips as I would have liked – for various reasons. All that said, the site apparently has many thousands of hits per annum, and most folks seems to like it. A chum however cynically joked that it was just twenty people looking at things multiple times – ouch! However, all of this would not have occurred without the suggestion and kind encouragement from Tracey Llewellyn – who at the time was the editor of Revolution (she now edits the excellent Telegraph Time supplement – amongst other things. Ed). This was after I tried to get her to publish an article I wrote on a Patek perpetual calendar I owned – but despite several attempts I just could not shorten enough to meet her requirements. It was also probably not particularly well-written in those days – and some would say not much has changed! Anyway, its my own baby and because it is non-commercial, I have freedom over what I write about and in what style. That was actually all I really wanted to do, so, yes, I supposed I have achieved those initial aims.
OK, moving on the matter in hand. Whilst making an infrequent visit to York last week, I called into various watch outposts, and one of my main targets was one of Berrys unsuspecting boutiques. After a brief chat and some thought, I was offered a look at a lovely Breguet Classique. This model happened to be a time-only version, with a black dial framed by a super cool rose gold case.
So, the watch is one of the 5177 range, with the reference 5177BR/2N/9V602. It has a 38mm x 8.8 round case, fashioned in 18ct rose gold. All is polished, including the fairly slim bezel. A coin edge detail can be found on the flanks. The crown, with motif atop, is of a traditional shape and just the right size – practical but not too dominant. Modest welded-on lugs protrude at some 90° and are 20mm wide. On the reverse there is an exhibition window showing off the movement, along with items of information engraved on the gold frame. All glazing is via sapphire crystal. The case is waterproof to 3 bar.
Turning to the dial, this is in a deep black and made of enamel using the tricky Grand Feu method. Outboard are tiny white painted symbols covering the minutes. These comprise of diamonds, stars, and to me what looks like the Egyptian Ankh “key of life” sign. Then the lovey Arabic numerals in the Breguet font – also painted. The only real overt script on the dial is the brand name under 12 o’clock, however, on very close inspection above 6 o’clock is the “secret” Breguet signature. Moving to the hands, the hour and minute ones are in what is known as the “hollow apple” style – most commonly associated with Breguet. The second hand is a needle, but with a little hoop (or apple) at the counterweight end. All are in gold. The dial is pretty minimalist and personifies an iconic dress watch style. As usual, for practical reasons I would quite like a date display – however I do understand that for aesthetic purity, an omission here is probably right!
Regarding the movement, this is 7775 an in-house automatic time-only caliber. There are 189 parts, and included in these are 26 synthetic rubies, a silicon balance spring, and surprise surprise, a Breguet balance wheel. The watch beats at some 4hz and has a useful 55 hour power reserve. As one would expect with an expensive watch, the movement has decoration aplenty – with Geneva stripes mainly, but the most compelling is the fan-shaped guilloche on the large 24ct gold rotor.
As one would expect on a gold/black dress watch, it is secured to one’s body via a black alligator strap with a gold ardillon or pin buckle. Interestingly, to bolster security, the strap is attached to the case not by a spring bar but screws, and ditto the buckle to the strap.
This is a lovey looking watch and it reminds me a bit of my Lange Saxonia Oversize date – but thinner and more simple. Clearly it is top quality being from such an illustrious and old maison. As one may expect, all this wonderfulness does not come cheap, and for this particular offering be prepared to part with £25,500. I have noted a few used for sale, but they are around the £22k+ level. This is one of those watches that I could see doting parents giving a lucky child on their 21st birthday, or from a loving spouse on a special occasion. As such, the watch would be treated as a keeper!
Rating: 4.75/5
All words & images: The Writer.