So, we now come to the third watch of our trio. Frankly, this watch type would not usually be in my orbit of interest. Why? Well, watches encrusted with diamonds would not really be found on my wrist – even if I could afford them! No, I think these are the preserve of pop stars and fashionistas – or I suppose rich ladies who just wish to make a large watch statement! In truth, Berrys just wheeled this piece out in front of me, and, as by most measures it is a stupendous time piece – plus I am not that churlish, I am happy to cover!
The item before us is reference 5961 R, and boasts a 40.5mm x 13.5mm polished 18ct rose gold case with nicely integrated lugs. All this is surrounded by a bezel set with 36 baguette diamonds – totaling 3.66 carats if you please! To the right is a chunky, conventionally-shaped and signed crown, flanked by the pump style chronograph pushers. On the left of the case are three recessed corrector pushers (adjusted by the supplied stylus) for the day/date/month. The glazing is via sapphire crystal – as is indeed the pane on the reverse. The watch has waterproofing to 30 meters.
Moving to the dial, this is noted as being in “opaline ebony black”. An outer minute rail track is present, punctuated with gold batons infilled with more baguette diamonds (some 0.24 ct). Some of these (at 5 and 7) are in fact sacrificed due to other dial needs. Instead, smaller diamond cubes are utilised. In the case of the 12 position though, a tiny lumed dot is used because the gold-framed date window dominates here. Incidentally, under this is a small power reserve indicator, using a gold hand moving from – to +. At near 2 and 10 are the windows for the day and month. All are white on black and as such are pretty clear. At six is a large 60 minute and 12 hour stopwatch counter. Within this may also be found a day/night indicator. Finally, the main hands are gold and leaf-shaped – with lume within. The sweep is a lumed gold needle.
Turning to the movement, this is automatic caliber CH 28-520 IRM QA 24h. It contains 456 parts including 40 jewels. It runs at 28,800 vph and has power retention of a useful 45-55 hours. The watch features an annual calendar (patented by Patek in 1996. Ed), which only requires adjusting once a year – in March. The stopwatch mechanism is of a column wheel variety, however, it differs from usual offerings as the clutch lever is not engaged, but instead uses a clutch disk. This essentially means that the sweep hand can be left operating to indicate running seconds, without affecting the accuracy of the watch – although power will be sapped at a slightly higher rate of course. Needless to say, the view of the movement revealed at the back is an exquisite sight, with various decorative motives employed. The large rotor is an exquisite sight, having it’s own decoration and basking in a 21ct gold glow.
Straps can be attractive but normally are fairly utilitarian, however, not so in this case! Here we have a gold fold-over clasp, with 22 baguette diamonds (1.02 carats) set into the Calatrava Cross button. The strap itself is in semi-patent black alligator.
So, there we go! This piece is of course by any measure a tour de force in terms of high end jewellery watchmaking. Whether a tool type watch is really the place for so many precious stones is debatable, but like most of us with chronographs, we simply never use the stopwatch function. I personally have several chronographs, but cannot recall actually using the time recorder in a genuine way – but we do like talking about the potential though! At the end of the day we have a gold watch with 66 diamonds (totaling some 4.92 carats), and a full calendar with an annual complication. The strap is also, overall, a masterpiece in it’s own right.
On reflection, the diamonds on the case are perhaps not quite as “in your face” as I first thought – being non-coloured (i.e. clear) as such. However, I am less keen on the button which I feel could be a little intrusive (practically), and could have quite happily just been left gold. A minor pedant I accept! All said, this is a superb watch form arguably the best brand in the business. Over price, well if you have to ask then you probably cannot afford it – but I’ll tell you anyway: £146,030.
Finally, to try and answer my initial question of whether it is a time piece or an item of jewellery? Being honest, I am not really 100% sure I know, but offer some thoughts. If this was a lesser brand, offering more modest mechanical prowess – but with lots of added gems, then I would possibly say that its actually a piece of jewellery that happens to tell the time. If vice versa, then a watch first but with some jewellery hints. In this case however, Patek give you a full salvo covering both aspects! So, I feel that the jury is pretty much 50/50 – but of course you decide depending on what your preferences are. That’s all I can say really!
Words & Images: The Writer.
Again, my thanks to Berrys in York.