Depressingly, I sometimes have to start some articles with an apology! As readers may know, I have been pledging to reduce my collection of watches as I simply have too many languishing in the safe. Yes, I was enthusiastic when I first bought them, but after a few months (or worse, less) they would fall from favour – sometimes as a new pretender would usurp my initial love, or if they were expensive, a worry of damaging and therefore devaluing them. Early this year I did fairly well on the reduction front – mainly via my pal James Kibble who has his own online retail site. In fact, if memory serves, some 5-6 were dispatched – usually pretty quickly and at more or less what I wanted for them. But then a month or so later I would idly be scanning his – and other’s sites, and bingo, something new would grab my eye and then probably be bought. Overall, I must confess to having acquired a few (er, liar – more like seven. Ed) really nice watches this year, so, sorry for my slippage! There is a modicum of mitigation however; I do now focus more on rarity/quality these days, and as such really feel that this watch at least reflects such elements.
So, how did it all occur? Well, I was doing my usual occasional trawl of known watch outlets and eventually came to 90 Mount St. These folks are owned by Richard Mille and are really the UK outlet for used RM watches, plus, other good makes that have probably been taken in as p/ex. I have knowledge of them as I obtained my Lange Saxonia Outsize Date from them last year. Anyway, RM’s being too dear for my shrunken pocket, I scrolled down to see what “other” watches were on offer. So, this is where I came across a 2005 Cartier Tortue 8 Day in white gold. Now, this watch is quite special, as it formed part of Cartier’s Collection Prive Cartier Paris (CPCP) collection which ran from 1998 to 2008. The idea was to resurrect and build upon some of Cartier’s more iconic designs – but principally the many Tank variants and the Tortue. They were made in a limited quantity (and numbered), and all in precious metals – such as yellow/white gold and platinum. Different complications were offered with more upmarket boxes and paperwork provided, and yes, they were rather more expensive!
I knew a little of the Tortue (tortoise in French) – designed way back in 1912 it even pre-dated the fabled Tank. It remained popular for many years, with one early complication being a repeater, then in 1928 a mono poussoir chronograph. More dainty versions were made for the ladies, usually in precious metals with diamonds. All were made to a basic tonneau shape, which, along with the angle of the lugs, all served to emulate the ponderous shelled reptile. I liked the visual treat – which really exhibits many cues from that Art Deco era, and whilst I have a fairly new Tank Solo which does likewise, I am not so convinced that really “square” watches are me (another one may bite the dust! Ed). I also liked the idea of a fairly exclusive model. So, a few boxes were starting to be ticked. Then there was the matter of price. Well, on looking at say Chrono 24, a couple similar to this (and in rose gold) were up for £18-22k. Mount St’s price was a bit lower, but still a bit pricy for me. After some chat with my contact Dean, it came down a bit more to a level I could live with – possibly in part as I was an existing customer. So, a deal was done! I would just point out that whilst the watch came with many and beautiful accompaniments, the original sale/guarantee papers were absent. A pity of course, and may indeed have reduced the price a little, but this is something I will speak to Cartier about at some point.
As mentioned earlier, being a SP watch, it is just a bit more special than previous models. My watch – model (ref W1545951) is the same basic case design to way back really – but rather larger now at some 38mm x 48mm, and, here in white gold. The crown is the usual basic shape with the trademark blue stone insert. However, it is the dial – made of gold, and the complications that really make this model appeal.
The dial is a very pale silvery/champagne colour (which I think aides the vintage look) with stunning guilloche engraving. Right under the hands, centrally, is a lovely rose pattern (not only I think in homage to the rose engine lathes, but also to single out SP models), then, radiating outwards fan shaped segments each containing a pattern. There is then a portion that contains the blue/black Roman numerals, in a lustrous hand-painted texture. Within these confines, at 4.30, is a recessed running second sub-dial (with rail track), then at 6.30, a square and split date window, and finally, at 10.30, a graduated power reserve segment with hand, noting “8 Jours”. Outboard of all this is a rail track marking minutes. At 12 is noted Cartier, under which is noted Paris – another SP feature (except the Tank Cintree apparently. Ed). There is also the “secret” Cartier signature, which is subtly built into the inverted V at 7. Finally, the hands are of a blued Breguet type. All of this is protected by a lovely shaped and domed sapphire crystal.
Underneath can be found a full-size exhibition window secured by eight recessed screws. At each lug corner is noted various items of information – such as the gold stamps and so on. The actual serial number is not shown here however.
Turning to the movement now. This is a hand-wound type – number 9910MC and supplied by Jaeger-Le Coultre. This movement is effectively the JLC cal 876 from 2003, but with some slight changes for Cartier. Cartier of course have a very long history with them going back years, so this comes as no surprise. The caliber – as rather obviously noted earlier, has a power reserve of a whopping eight days or 192 hours! This however is nothing that new, as JLC made their first 8 day movement way back in 1919 with cal 144! Well, manual watches can be rather labour intensive, but here, attention is only required once a week. Some 25 jewels are noted and the vph is 28,800 vph. There is also a monometallic balance, straight line lever escapement, shock protection and a self-compensating balance spring. Although manual wind watches can sometimes present a rather boring view, Cartier have at least tried to entertain, so have smothered almost every plate surface with their reverse CC in an engraved pattern. I cannot see any reference to water resistance but I have read somewhere that it is 30m. The watch runs very well, and has been serviced by 90 Mount St (or their usual source). The watch comes with their two year warranty
Finally, the watch sports a black alligator leather (new in this case) deployant strap. Here, the length can be fine-tuned to obtain an optimum fit for one’s wrist – albeit a bit fiddly to do initially. The watch – although being of a fair size and weight, wears very well and comfortably.
In conclusion, I have a very attractive and iconic watch from a high end maison. It is powered by a cracking movement offering every practicality, from one of the best Swiss makers. The watch is fairly rare and I feel I bought at a pretty good price. I have only had for a week or so but am already loving it. As such, there is a fair chance that it will end up in my “keeper” section!
Unless Otherwise Noted, Words & Images: The Writer