Until quite recently (last November), I had not been to London since before Covid struck. There were various reasons for this – obviously and firstly the Covid restrictions – but other personal issues intervened. As such I was keen to remedy this, and one catalyst was to attend the WATCHPRO (WP) Salon which straddled a Friday/Saturday. Another reason was to personally hand over some fifteen or so watches that I had decided to sell via James at Kibble Watches. This was not done lightly, as I am notoriously bad at ever getting rid of things that I no longer look, wear or use. However, as the money involved was not much short of six figures, I had to now be sensible! But, don’t fret too much on my behalf, as that only comprises of around a third of my collection. Such is my overall madness!
The WP Salon showcases a number of (mainly) independent brands, and offers some seminars. These days it would seem that this is really the only show in town – the previous Watchmakers Club events organised by Dave Brailsford of Garrick appearing to be no more. I find this dearth of activity in the UK an anathema really because as a nation we are big watch buyers and collectors! Anyway, I applied myself to attend, and on this occasion I applied as a “journo” and was gratified to be accepted!
I left home at 7am on the Thursday in order to get an early York-London train. Despite the nightmarish tales of such travel, I got down pretty well – but only to then be confronted by a tube strike! Great! As such the cab queue was horrendous, and, in no mood to mess about with my weighty and valuable luggage, I simply walked round the corner onto another road and hailed a cab quite quickly. I then headed straight to James in Clerkenwell. It was good to see him again and to visit his office for the first time. The inspecting and processioning took a couple of hours, after which I headed off to my ex-forces club on Pall Mall in another taxi.
After checking in and having a brief rest, I next walked up to Mount St to visit my old cigar haunt, Sautters. I did not linger there long – for various reasons (which I wont go into), but contented myself with a modest purchase and resolved to return the next day for a proper sit and sample. It was now nearly 5 o’clock and I had really had enough, so returned to the club. As this was my first visit (my old spot having gone bust in lock-down, so in a deal we were transferred to another venue) I spent a little time looking at the very interesting collection of mainly military paintings and artifacts. A bit later I indulged in a very nice chicken curry and retired to my quarters!
The next day – after a leisurely breakfast and scanning of the papers, I emerged and walked across to Leicester Square and the Londoner Hotel, where the WP event was being hosted. Entry for “Press” was from 11am, so we could meander around in comparative peace until 2.30pm when the public would then enter.
Usually at such events I embark on an initial fast walk circuit, mentally noting which stands are of interest. I would then do a slower walk in order to talk to folks. However, on this occasion, it did not go to entirely plan – mainly due to the fact that there were few people in yet so it was much more easy for exhibitors to snare you! The first was Herbelin – the French/Swiss brand. The folks there were very pleasant, but to be honest I was not that taken with the general watch designs they had, plus, they would I suppose be viewed as an “affordable” brand. As such there were no interesting movements, intricate decorations, or luxury cases to marvel at. I politely listened for a while then eased myself away.
My next pause was at Czapek. I did not mind this one as I know the folks there pretty well having bought a watch some years ago, and then joined in on an excellent atelier tour. So, it was nice to catch up with Andy and Jane who were manning the stand. It also allowed me to study their Antarctique model properly – something I had been attempting to do for a couple of years with no luck! They had salmon pink and black dial versions – each of a different size – 40mm and 38mm respectively. It really is a super watch and would not mind one, but personally I would prefer just on a leather strap rather than the bracelet. I think the rrp for these is some £22k, but most designs are sold out due to their popularity. One other nugget of information of interest was that the value of my own Faubourg de Cracovie chronograph had risen by some margin. The rrp back in the day was I think around £22,000, but for something similar today it is now a whopping £37k!! Also, my model (L’Heure Blue) was a very limited edition which sold out some time ago, plus, my piece was unique within this. It could therefore be worth more! All this waylaid me for a good hour or so before I moved ahead again.
I next paused at Seiko. Of real interest was in fact a Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon – which had it’s own security guard! Alas, they refused point blank to remove the watch from the display case so I had to take a poor shot through this. There was no real info, so asked a staff member if they could email me the spec. Sure – but they never did! There is more information online, plus via an interesting article in the current Revolution magazine.
A little further on I came across a pretty new brand Sherpa – set up by a German husband and wife team. The inspiration is one of the old Enicar Sherpa models – the brand made tool watches for mountain expeditions/diving etc in the 50’s and 60’s. There are two compressor type models on offer, the OPS and Ultradive. The only real difference is the fact that the former has a black case and is more military in style. They both have Sellita derived movements and 200m waterproofing. The inner bezel rotates.
I was not that taken by the dial design, which really looks very similar to the original Enicar one. Enicar are still going but seem not to make these versions anymore, so maybe Sherpa made a deal with them over the rights. I also was a bit nonplussed when advised that the rotors of the watches were engraved with miniature Tibetan prayer symbols. These are supposedly in homage to the Sherpa people, but frankly it seems a little bit self-indulgent – bearing in mind you cannot see them anyway as the case back is solid! The price is some Euro 5,900 which seems a bit keen. I wish them well though.
I next hove into Speake-Marin. Readers may recall the earlier article on my S-M Serpent Calendar, when I had to contact them direct for assistance after my attempt to get some information from Peter Speake and Danielle Marin failed. Anyway, I dealt with a really helpful young chap called Julien Ehrismann and we exchanged information via email. I did not know him by sight, but as I approached the stand a youngish man got up with recognition in his eyes! I think he did knew me from my image on Watchlogic!
I spent a good hour or so hearing about their plans for new models, and was also able to handle their Ripples sports model launched in the Spring. I wrote a piece on this last year based upon their press pack. I am always a little reluctant to really pass judgement without seeing something in the flesh, but at the time there was no other option. Although the watch is certainly better in person – you could really see and feel the quality, my earlier noted misgivings did not really change that much. Personally, I am still not too keen on that case shape, and to a lesser degree the pronounced ripples and position of the running seconds. Also, although the size is a reasonable 40.3 mm, it does seem to wear larger. I do concede however that these are mainly subjective views, and Julien assures me that it is selling just fine. All this notwithstanding, I do salute S-M for making such a bold tilt at the chic sports watch sector, even if at some £19,300 there are probably stronger alternative competitors.
Of more interest to me was a watch based on some of the old S-M traits – the One & Two. The version I saw is automatic, open-worked, and in titanium. Although a skeleton type is not usually my cup of tea, it was an attractive piece. I liked it, and feel that more of the same – or on a similar theme, would be good. The price of this was around £17,000. They also have an attractive and interesting triple date chronograph, and this is called the London. It is 42mm in size, and is powered by a manual vintage Valjoux 88. The price is some £19,000. S-M have an interesting range of watches at prices to meet most pockets. If you want haute horlogerie that is also fine, with some tourbillons available, plus, you can order bespoke too. Since the revamp a few years ago, I feel they are a brand to watch!
Across the way at Le Roy, some high end morsels took my eye. In particular a super chronograph in gold with a black dial. I was able to chat to the representative and handle the watch. Again lovely, but at some £35k a bit dear – especially from a little-known, albeit an old brand. Perrelet was on the adjacent stand as they are apparently owned by the same overall business. These frankly are not for me, being large, colourful, and of course majoring on their turbine dial rotor – a tad too gimmicky.
At this point I needed a rest, so decided to get a coffee at the nearby free bar. When I asked for a white coffee (latte?) the young folks looked as if I had asked for liquidised python juice! “We can do an expresso”, the youth replied. “No”, I said, “that is too strong and bitter – something with milk in it?” After consulting a colleague, the response was, “er, we do not have any milk”! I gave up, and as there were some alcoholic drinks being passed around, decided to imbibe early! Hunger pangs were also now impinging, and whilst some tasty canapés were circulating, they were really small and only served to make my food pangs worse! Having some sandwiches on offer (for sale even) at the bar would have been really helpful.
It was now getting busier, but I headed round again – this time the other way! I stopped off at Kauri. This company is run by a lovely young French couple who had started their watch business in lock-down. Their offerings had large wooden cases/dials and Soprod movements. As such I expected them to be cheapish (sorry, affordable), but how wrong you can be! When I enquired I was startled to learn that approaching £4k would get you the solid dial version, and for £5k odd a skeletonised one. “Its the wood you see”, the young man said earnestly “it is rare and comes from New Zealand”. Ahh, that kind of wood!! Well, I am not sure they really look like £4-5k watches, and I think that matters to some folks. But, again, good luck to them.
Another stop was AnOrdain. These are the Scottish folks who specialise in watches with lovely enamelled dials. Although I am not really a time-only guy (they only make such items. Ed), I could have been seduced into buying one as I feel their fumee type enamelling is impressive and frankly beautiful. As such I was keen to have a word and see what was on offer. So I asked a young man on the stand if any of the watches on the stand were for sale? The answer was in the negative. OK, but might they be able to make me a bespoke-coloured dial watch? That was not possible either “we are far to busy for that” I was informed. I then mentioned that I could pay a bit more and would write about it/them. The chap looked horrified and confirmed in the negative again. He then suddenly revealed from a hidden watch roll, a new dial colour in a blueish grey fumee. This apparently is a new colour for 2023, but at that time was “secret”! Myself, and another chap next to me were blown away. I said that I would order one there and then. “Oh no”, Mr Negative said, “that is not possible as there is waiting list”. I enquired how long – more in hope than expectation. Mr Morose – “well, we are talking years and the list is closed”. I mentioned that I was 62 and could not wait years! Losing some patience by now, myself and the other chap gave up and moved on, muttering still. I have since been on their website and no watches appear to be in stock, plus their retailers seem to be in the same position. A pity really as I have now been seriously put off from buying, and I suspect others will be too. If there are production limitations – up to point one can accept – but frankly it was the rather negative and po-faced attitude that irritated me. One may of course be able to get a few on the used market, but probably at over- inflated prices. Anyway no images here as I was not in the mood!
It was now nearly 4 o’clock and I running out of steam, plus, I was still thirsty and hungry! I went back to Czapek and perched with them for another hour, but then decided that enough was enough – even though there was an evening “cocktail do” next up. Instead I scuttled back up to Sautters, and spent a nice hour in the company of a Oliva 5 Maduro and an interesting French ex-pat. I then called into a favourite Italian restaurant down the road – Delfinos. They do fantastic pizzas, and although I shouldn’t have, I did – plus a green salad and a glass of house merlot. Afterwards I returned to the Club, and as my throat was quite hoarse, decided to just watch some telly and have an early night.
So, now we are at Saturday morning and again a leisurely breakfast – this time with some smoked Haddock in an effort to be a little more healthy! I decided to scoot up to Sautters again as they usually opened at 9am. However, it would seem that post-Covid they now open at 10am. Outrageous! So, with little to do I sauntered past nearby Bremont, and although they were still closed, the lights were on and humans were inside. I recognised Rudy the manager from a boutique event pre-Covid, so after some face pulling and sign language, he let me in. I had a coffee, and he showed me some new watches sporting their in-house ENG 365 caliber. This has a silicon escape wheel, beats at 3.5hz, and offers 65 hours of power. I took a few model pictures, but the one shown here is my favourite – the Fury. The price is some £5,995 and for that you get a great watch plus a 5 year warranty.
I then scuttled back to the show at about 10.30, but when I arrived I realised that the seminars did not start until noon or so. I therefore left and made my way to the Patek boutique on New Bond St. I had a loose arrangement to meet with my watchmaker chum Paul and go for a coffee. However, when I got there he was with a customer. After a while he was free, but unfortunately we could not go out as he was just too busy. What cost of living crisis or recession? Anyway, we caught up and agreed to do better next time.
I was by now a bit behind time, so the walk back to the event was at a fast pace. Alas, I had mostly missed Robert-Jan Broer from Fratello – a nuisance as he was one of the more interesting speakers. The next session was about eco matters in the watch world, with four brands (Oris, Sherpa, Elliot Brown and William Wood) represented on a panel hosted by Mike Clerizo. Now I like Mike, but frankly it was a bit of a painful experience listening to him trying to tease out from these folks their “Thunberg” credentials. Some were more convincing than others, and although I certainly agree with trying to be “green”, it was frankly a tad boring, so, I bided my time and slipped away. I did consider going back to the hall for another sweep, but frankly it would have been fruitless. I also did not want to blank more people when they looked hopefully at me when passing! As such I called it a day and did a little wandering – including visiting Selfridge’s watch department. Amongst the scores of glass cases was the second-hand display from Boucheron. One watch in particular caught my beady eye – a Tudor Monte Carlo reissue of a few years ago – mint, with all accompaniments and warranty – for some £3,250. I was very tempted and even offered them £3K – but sorry no discounts!! I am glad in a way, as I should really try for an original 70’s version – but they are of course now some £10k! I could not cope with the crowds along Oxford St, but decided to call into The TAG boutique just to see if my old pal Tony the manager was there. He was, so we spent a good hour chatting – before an influx of customers curtailed things. I then darted South and back to the Club and had another curry and did my crossword then bed.
The next day was of course Remembrance Sunday. I had not been in London for this for many years, preferring to go to my old school in Surrey who combined this important commemoration with their Old Boys Day. I had also not been to the latter for a few years due to Covid, and although in theory I could have gone still, I did not fancy pushing my luck on getting a train down from London and back on a Sunday. Anyway, of course there were a fair few people staying at the Club who were taking part in the parade. At breakfast – which today had a small queue, I chatted to a lovely couple from Bristol. He had been a Surgeon Commander and had been on HMS Ardent in the Falklands. She, like my Antelope, was bombed and sunk. There were some 22 killed, so a worse tally.
After breakfast – at about 10 am, I walked down to Horse Guards, where the Veterans and Armed Forces had mustered for the parade. By this time it was obvious that I was far too late to get anywhere near the Cenotaph, so decided to go against the flow of people and headed towards Buckingham Palace. This proved to be a good move as – with fewer people around me now, I watched with ease four Royal cars sweep by. The first contained Prince Edward and Sophie, the next Princess Anne and Tim Lawrence, then Prince William and Kate and finally King Charles and Camilla. Camilla was sitting on my side, and as I was videoing with my mobile, I swear she looked my way and waved! After this I headed up to Sautters again (mercifully open on a Sunday), and then had another look at whatever shops were open.
I went back to the Club at about 5pm, whereupon I had a rest then a shower and then to the eatery. Oh dear, it was full as all the “Paradees” were still all there of course. Anyway, my breakfast couple had secured a table and kindly invited me to join them. I ordered another curry (it was just so nice) and bought us all a drink and then spent a pleasant couple of hours together. This included the relaying of an amazing tale from the day. Apparently, in the Falklands, the Surgeon had saved a sailors life after he was struck in the head by a piece of shrapnel from the bomb explosions when HMS Ardent was attacked by Argentine aircraft. The metal shard was embedded in his cranium and by all accounts he was in a very bad way. After stabilising him, the victim was then airlifted off, and it would seem that contact was then lost. Anyway, whilst assembling for the parade, another participant came up to the Surgeon and introduced himself as his former patient!! He had eventually recovered, got married and had children. He even produced the piece of shrapnel, which he carried around with him as a good luck charm. Needless to say the reunion was emotional, and what an amazing story!
I returned North the next day without incident and reflected on my trip. I had covered a lot of ground – figuratively and actually. I had visited a number of old haunts and met some old faces – and some new ones too! So, what of the WP Salon event. Well, firstly it is great to have something like this on in the UK as frankly there is so little else. So, I thank WP for this. On a personal note, there were a fair few brands that did not really do it for me. I suppose I am just not so keen on folks that major on some personal angle/quest/odd design, and then charge a fair sum for rather average materials and mechanics. I guess though that is how some independents get going, but frankly I don’t know how they survive financially! Anyway, it would be good to try and up the quality here if possible, with some more higher-end brands. I also feel that some more bigger established names would also benefit the event – but I know they are not easy to attract. That said, Seiko and Oris stepped up so good on them! Anyway, I would be more than happy to go again this year, and hopefully the refreshment side may be improved upon too!
Words/Images: The Writer
Words/Images: The Writer