It has been a little while since I last wrote, as readers may recall that I was due a fairly serious operation. Well, this occurred in early July and whilst it went OK, the aftermath was pretty unpleasant and challenging. In fact, I only started to feel more human earlier this month.
Whilst I had had much time on my hands, actual material to write about was more or less absent as I prefer to physically see and handle pieces. This was until last week when I had to venture into York (the first time for over a year) for a few reasons. Beforehand I had contacted Mike at Berrys to warn him that I may descend on them!
On this occasion I decided to call in on their newish Patek boutique to see what interesting morsels they might have. Ideally I would have really liked to have seen a Cubitus, but whilst they have had a few in, there were none available at that time. However, three interesting watches were brought out from the safe for me to study. I shall deal with one now and the others in due course.
So, the first of the trio was the Annual Calendar Travel Time – ref 5326G-001. This first appeared in 2021 to much acclaim, being in no small part due to it’s retro military-type appearance and intriguing dial finish.
The Calatrava-type 18ct white gold case comes in at 41 x 11mm. This is polished, but it also has a distinctive hobnail finish to the sides. A chunky knurled crown is supplied, with the usual emblem on the cap. Recessed buttons around the case are used for setting the calendar. Water resistance is noted at 30m. Sapphire crystal is used to glaze both front and back.
Whilst there is a lot of information displayed on the dial, it does not look too busy. You have full calendar information serviced by two windows at 12 o’clock and one at 6 o’clock. All are black on white so are pretty clear and, also to be noted, they always show the “home” time information. Bisecting the dial from 3 to 9 are the Local and Home indicators for the GMT function – including discs below denoting night or day. Above the lower date is a running seconds indicator complete with moon phase. At the dial outer edge is a rail track, interspersed with white gold batons. Then within, large Arabic numerals. These, and the three white gold syringe-shaped hands, are infilled (or outlined in the case of the home time hand) with classic-coloured lume in a creamy hue. The dial though is really the “piece de resistance”, with a charcoal granular textured finish – reminiscent of “crackle finish” paint from 50s/60s car dashboards, or the bodies of older cameras. Such is the finish, it alters from black to a dark grey depending on the light. I remarked to Berrys that the effect is a little like an graduated fume finish, and as such is quite mesmerizing.
The power for this watch comes from caliber 31-260 PSQA LU FUS 24 – origins coming from the 2011 flagship base caliber 31-260 found in reference 5235G. This variation though has some 409 parts, 47 jewels, beats at 28,800 vph, and power up to 48 hours. The rotor is of the micro variety and made of platinum. The mechanism is adjusted in 6 positions. Gyromax and Spiromax are employed in the balance wheel and spring. The annual calendar only requires setting every 4 years. As one would expect, there is some lovely decoration of various types. The series of bridges also give the movement a vintage appearance.
The watch has a deployant-type black strap (with Calatrava Cross button) made out of, at first glance, canvas. However, it is in fact leather that has been finely tooled. One also receives a second plainer strap in a light tan suede.
In conclusion, we have a superbly made and attractive “tool” type watch from one of, if not the, best watch makers. It neatly melds cues from a past age with modern reliability and accuracy. Expensive? Well, by most measures the current rrp of £71,450 is certainly a lot of money for a watch. However, justification at this level is so subjective to be almost pointless. Also, as “value for money” criteria just do not really apply, I shall not do my usual rating. I’ll end by simply saying that if you like it and have the money, just buy it!!
Images & Words: The Writer
My thanks to Berrys in York.