Since my last post a couple things have occurred – the main one being that I now have a date for my operation – early July. I shall probably not comment further until after the event! Another is that I have treated myself to a new watch – and I mean NEW and not just new to me!
Like many other watch enthusiasts, when I am a little bored I sometimes idly poke about a retailer’s used/sale sections of their website. Sometimes – just sometimes, a bit of a gem emerges. In this instance, the retailer in question was Berrys, the Leeds based watch retailer (they have other stores dotted about too. Ed) who I know pretty well. So, I had already gone through all their watches once, but went back to have another look at one interesting item – the above-noted Rado DiaMaster. I quite liked it – and the price, as it was down some 30% from a bit over £2k. It also ticked many of my usual boxes in terms of; overall size, a pleasing and clear dial, date function, power reserve, and overall quality.
Before moving on, I would just note that I was not that au-fait with Rado. Yes, I saw their adverts and was reasonably familiar with their models generally, but in terms of the firm’s history, I couldn’t have told you much. I have in fact owned one of their watches – a 1980’s era Captain Cook (time and date) that I picked up cheaply within a job lot a few years ago. It was in good condition and kept decent time, however, there was an issue with the date mechanism which was a bit intermittent when adjusting via the crown. I got a local pal who is a watch repairer to take a look and the fix turned out to be a simple (and cheap) one. A few months later I sold it on and that was that.
In view of the above comments, I think it is worth just giving a quickish overview of the business. It commenced in 1917 by the three Schlup brothers in Lengau near Bern in Switzerland. The business seems to have specialised in making watch movements. There is little detailed information over some aspects, as we then jump to the 2nd WW with the statement that when this ended, they were one of the largest movement makers in the World.
Watches were then made from the 1950s under the original name of Schlup & Co, but in 1957 the Rado name emerged (meaning wheel in Esperanto) with the launch of the Golden Horse, then the Green Horse. Both were attractive, sturdy and reliable timepieces, and successful too, as by 1960 the brand was represented in some 61 countries! The really big success then came in 1962 in the shape of the square DiaStar 1, which introduced sapphire crystal (rather than mineral) plus a special hard case made of tungsten carbide – both designed to prevent scratching. In 1983 the also-square Anatom was used by Andy Warhol in one of his last paintings – a real modernist endorsement! It was though in 1986 with the Rado Integral model that the use of ceramics was cemented – in this case now with the integral bracelet. It should be noted that this was also when the firm was acquired by the Swatch Group, which of course provided much in the way of funding and research clout. By 1990, Rado were using innovative material technology more and more, and that year launched the Rado Ceramica, a watch that looked modern and minimalist. It used sapphire and high-tech ceramics (zirconium oxide) using both an integrated case and bracelet. Then in 1993 came the Sintra, made of Cermet, which was a titanium based ceramic – so, very tough and light. More innovations occurred, all still using different ceramic type materials, modern-looking case designs, and with interesting colourways. The latter in particular with the 2011 TrueThinline Les Couleurs Le Corbusier – in homage to the French/Swiss architect (1887-1965), who was known as the “father of modernism”. This, is really where we are up to now.
Looking at the Rado website today, reveals a combination of retro-type re-releases (DiaStar, Captain Cook and Ceramica), plus more modern models – such as TrueSquare, TrueThinline, HyperChrome and Centrix. Prices range from approximately £1500 – £4000. More female-based offerings are also represented.
OK, so now to the DiaMaster dress-type watch that I have just bought. This was in fact updated in 2015 and mine has a reference number of R14067156. It has a case size now of 41mm x 8.3mm. It is made of Ceramos – a further refined ceramic and titanium composite (in fact 90% titanium carbide) which is both light and incredibly hard. Whilst polished, it does have a slightly muted lustre appearance. The case is basically round, but as it is in fact bowl-shaped, the the see-through case back is somewhat smaller. The lugs are quite modest in size and are plain shaped. There is a decent sized crown (with anchor logo atop), but due the case shape, appears slightly recessed. Along with other information on the reverse, 50m water resistance is noted.
Turning to the dial, this is of a gunmetal hue, with some very feint sunburst brushing radiating out from the center. There are simple hour batons that have a bronze/gold finish, as do the sword-shaped hour and minute hands. The anchor logo and “Rado” are at 12, with “automatic” above the date window at 6. The latter is black with white numerals. Aside from “Swiss Made” at the very bottom, that’s it – so no sweep hand/register, or rail track here, in keeping with a modern and minimalist presentation.
Regarding the movement, this noted as automatic caliber A31L01 (an ETA movement – owned by Swatch. Ed). This offers a handy power reserve of 65 hours, smoothed by 21 jewels. The beat is a somewhat unusual 25,200 – possibly reduced to “up” the power reserve. On studying the movement through the window, it is an attractive and smallish looking engine, with some Cotes de Geneve decoration visible.
In order to secure the whole package to a human wrist, a very nice deployant strap is provided. It is the folding type where you thread a conventional strap end through a buckle and push the pin through your desired strap hole. It then folds shut and clicks into place via the release clamp using the same pin. To release there are two discreet lozenge-shaped buttons on each side. The strap itself is black and made of alligator leather. To my mind all this is a generous offering at this price point – even at the rrp.
OK – that’s it really! So, bearing in mind that I bought this without actually seeing in the flesh, am I a happy bunny? Well, overall, yes I am. The watch is attractive and practical – to operate and read properly I mean, plus, it has a decent movement and made by a good manufacturer (with history) who uses innovative materials. Any negatives? I suppose the only thing I would say is that the watch does wear it’s 41mm case a little larger than I was expecting. As such, for me, a 38mm size would be more ideal. That said, it is pretty thin and of course light so I can live with that. It is also, to my mind pretty good value – especially if one can obtain at a discount.
Rating: 4/5
As ever, my thanks to Berrys.
All images/words: The Writer.