To my mind all serious watch collectors/enthusiasts need to possess a Breguet. Why? Well, because this very old and venerable brand – along with it’s founder, pioneered so many important horological features that it would simply be be remiss not to. Yes, other brands, in the end, offer much the same as Breguet, but they can only emulate, whereas Breguet can legitimately sport their own inventions – like the overcoil balance spring, tourbillon, and those hand designs – to name but a few. So, if this is the case, why is it that I am still deficient? Quite simply, I have yet to find an overall design that I really like. In particular, I am not so keen on lugs that just sprout out from the case at right angles – a feature that I find rather incongruous with the rounded shape of the case and dial. As most of Breguet’s models have this design feature, I will probably be drawn more to their pilot chronographs that have flowing and integrated lugs.
Now, despite such biased feelings, I do sometimes have to overcome these when covering a watch. I have always said that if I really did not like a watch then I would simply not write about it. However, with the piece under the microscope today, the lug aspect is, I accept, not only subjective, but is more than trumped by numerous other positive aspects. So, on we go!
The genesis of this piece was when I called into Berrys in York recently. It was in fact to pick up the additional leather strap option for the bi-metal Tudor Black Bay GMT I bought a couple of months ago. As usual, this evolved into a good hours worth of chat with the affable staff there – including Mike the manager. Again, as usual, I asked if they had any new and interesting watches in. After some discussion, a Breguet and Omega were offered up. I tried them on and took some pictures – not as good as usual really due to the ceiling lights (I rarely take my light box with me), but they will suffice I feel. However, I have – as can be seen, snaffled a couple of images from Breguet’s own website in order to compare two gold versions!
The Breguet discussed here is in white gold, with a blue dial and strap (ref 7597BB/GY/9WU) and is shown below. There are two other options, being; white gold with a silvered dial, and rose gold with a silvered dial.
The Tradition 7027 was launched back in 2005 with its small time dial positioned in the upper portion of the case. This did cause a bit of a flutter as it was a new innovation from the hitherto rather conservative brand. Although not quite so modern really, as certain aspects harked back to Breguet’s souscription (subscription) funded pocket watches from 1797. Anyway, in 2020 a new version (7597) was offered, now sporting a retrograde date feature and a few other modern upgrades. This was further revised in 2022 with the three models noted previously.
So, to the case, which is 40mm x 12.10mm in size, round and with a fluted – or coin edge finish to the flank. The bezel is fairly slim and plain. To the right is a fluted crown sporting the Breguet B and operates a manual wind (if needed) and hand adjustment. Regarding the latter, a hacking feature is offered. On the other side – at about 10 o’clock, is a second crown or button, and this unscrews allowing the date pointer to be adjusted. There are then those rather angular lugs, which are welded onto the case and come out at 90 degrees. They include screwed bars for strap fitment. To the rear there is an exhibition case with a porthole. The case is waterproofed to 30 meters.
The watch front is where all the action is – quite literally! So, we have the small actual time-display dial – in quite a rich vibrant blue here (which changes depending on the light), positioned in the upper case portion. There is an outer chapter ring, which is brushed and has silver Roman numerals. The dial center is beautifully hand engraved in a Clous de Paris pattern – so a little like hobnails. The hands are heat-blued, and of course Breguet type with their trademark “hoop” ends. The Breguet name is noted at the top, along with the brand inception date lower down. At the bottom there is the date band – again in blue, and numbers and pips (for even numbers) are in white gold. The date pointer hand has a white tip, and the arm has been cleverly cranked to avoid touching the main wheel. The latter – along with main spring barrel, balance spring, and other components, are all visible against a frosted anthracite-coloured backdrop of plates and bridges. Pops of colour are also provided by blued screws and purple jewelled bearings. It is an intriguing view that shows the beating heart – aside from the important time and date.
Turning the watch over reveals the engine – automatic inhouse caliber 505Q. This has 234 parts including 45 jewels. The beat is 21,600 vph and some 50 hours of power is provided. A silicon balance spring is used to reduce friction and the tendency to become magnetised. The exhibition back (which has a very large glazed area) affords another view of the movement, but unlike more conventional watches, there are few moving parts to see. Aside that is from the rather large and modern-looking “edge cutter” shaped rotor and attaching plate.
The watch sports a lovey blue alligator strap, secured by a conventional pin buckle. I am glad of the simplicity here as all-to often, brands think that deployants are more classy and sophisticated, but in reality most can be less efficient or comfortable, and bulky to boot.
So, what are my conclusions. Well, as one would expect from such a brand, you get a beautifully made and finished watch. Precious metal is used for many parts, plus the motive power is also top notch. As to aesthetics, it is really difficult to offer true individuality these days without either looking ridiculous, or being impractical – or both! Here, Breguet succeeds extremely well. For some, the view may be a little too busy, but that is very subjective. However, unlike many “open” or “skeleton-type” watches that expose components, here, the important visual functions are separate and clear, whilst still allowing access to the watch’s mesmerising moving organs. As mentioned earlier, I would have perhaps liked a recessed pusher for the date – simply for cleaner aesthetics, plus, I am not entirely sure about the rotor shape and somewhat large attaching plate, which frankly all looks a little bit “industrial”. I appreciate that Breguet have attempted to combine traditional and modern features – and that may be appreciated by some people – but again, all pretty subjective. Overall, the watch is super in most areas that matter – even the lugs which do suit the watch! As to the price – this comes in at £35,200. Really, for what you are getting – an horological marvel, plus a high degree of exclusivity, I think that is par for the course and pretty reasonable.
Rating: 4/5
Words: The Writer
Images: The Writer and Breguet.