Readers may recall that I wrote a fairly in-depth article on this watch back in 2019. This covered some history of the model and it’s near sibling, a Rolex, that bears the same name. Readers will also recall that after I bought the watch at a Bonham’s auction, I took it to the Vacheron boutique in Bond St, whereupon the back was popped and looked at by their watchmaker. The verdict was that whilst all looked OK, the watch was very “dry” so needed servicing, and, due to the age, this would be in Switzerland. In answer to my obvious next question “how much”, this was £1,800 – plus more for any needed parts. Then, “how long” – maybe six months. Needless to say I passed on all this, thinking no, there will be someone in the UK who can do the job for much less. In the meantime I did order an archive extract for £150, and this took a couple of months.
I wore the watch for a few months and it kept good time, however, I noticed that sometimes in the morning it had stopped. This was not the case after hand-winding, but when relying on the rotor. Needless to say this was irritating, so I set about trying to find someone to sort it out. Long story short, I tried at least half a dozen watch repair firms – some I knew and some other I had been referred to. All would not touch the watch. The reason was always the same, “Karl, if we get in there and find a broken or worn component then we are screwed as Vacheron will just not supply us. You will have to get it serviced by them” One of the aspects of the watch that I knew was not quite right was the crown. It was not the correct one – but apparently you cannot even obtain this without the watch being “serviced” by Vacheron. After a bit I gave up and more or less retired the watch to the safe.
What were, and are my thoughts? Well, in my opinion, the service cost is way too high – particularly for just a time/date movement that is, after all, a modified and well-used JLC model. The time frame is also outrageous (this may be less today. Ed) – again for a relatively simple watch. Lastly, the embargo on selling parts to watch repair firms is also pretty cynical, protectionist, and disingenuous to others in the Industry. Now, of course, Vacheron’s excuse for all this is to “maintain quality control”. Now I get this, I really do, but they have taken it way too far. I see no earthly reason why they cannot supply appropriately qualified persons, after all, Rolex and others have accredited servicers. But of course they will lose revenue! However, not all of the top brands charge such sums. Again, as reported in earlier reports, my Patek Neptune (day/date) was serviced at a basic cost of some £900 odd – and that included a new strap! So, Vacheron, I think you really need to have a rethink on all this as you lost one potential service customer – but also at some point maybe on a new watch too! I would also mention at this point that most Vacheron retailers don’t have much good to say on the brand either. It is not so much the product of course, but in actually with them. I think this is all a great shame and this aspect should be addressed too.
Moving on, let us fast forward to early 2022. I was scrolling the internet when I came across Watches of Lancashire based in Darwen in Lancashire (obviously). They retail some really nice older watches, and Ian is a highly qualified watchmaker. I bought two watches overs a few months (a 1940s Eterna gold dress watch and more lately a 1971 Heure Carrera chronograph) in mint condition. Incidentally, all watches are serviced and have a 2 year warranty – the latter is impressive! Anyway, it was when I was at their premises I tentatively asked Ian about the Vacheron. I was surprised when he did not really blink, and agreed to do it. I explained my past frustrations, to which he said up to a point that it was all true, but we can cross that bridge as and when. The upshot was that I brought the watch to Ian to have an initial peek, and again, he said basically it looks fine, but a service was needed. He also noticed the crown issue, and would try and get an original or failing that, a better condition one. He would also give the case a light polish.
A couple of months later (about a week or so ago in fact), the watch was reported ready. All had gone well. A new date wheel had been fitted due to some damage found, and although an authentic crown could not be found, a much better one was sourced. This time the watch was sent to me and on opening the box I was blown away – it looks fantastic. I also asked for and received some great shots of the movement post service. Again, lovely. I have now worn solidly for four days and the timekeeping is excellent. I have subsequently just spoken to Ian – mainly about the movement, and he reports further that on the timegraph some +/- 10 seconds was recorded.
Lastly, so how much did it all cost? Well, all in it was £600. So, compared to what I think it could have been – say £2,500+ with Vacheron, a huge difference. Yes, the watch’s provenance and value may have been enhanced by a Vacheron service bill, but I am reasonably sure that the value increase would not have matched that, plus, I think the quality of work done is comparable. Anyway, as my watch is a “keeper”, all I ever wanted was it working properly and at a fair cost. To this end I feel this has been more than adequately achieved.
Very finally, it is some three years since I bought the Vacheron. Although value is not the be all and end all, I am pleased to note that prices have held up and in fact appreciated a bit. As such I feel my watch – in the condition it is in now, and along with it’s original box and extract from archive, is worth maybe £14k now. They are pretty rare of course with only a 100 or so having being made!
Words: The Writer
Images: The Writer & W of L.