I must admit that I do have a weakness for chronographs. I just like the look of them and their potential for timekeeping action – although, like most folks, I barely use that function! I cannot really list all chrono watches that have passed through my hands, but at the moment I have examples from IWC, Avia, Ebel, Czapek, Zenith, and Blancpain. However, there is one that I still covet, and that is a pilot type from Breguet. Aside from finding those watches attractive (a critical first requirement), I do not actually have any watch from one of the most illustrious brands in existence! So, I have always kept a weather eye open on used outlet sites, and from Breguet themselves. The quandary is over which one, and also should I lash out on a gold version, which, with a black dial, looks fantastic. There is one easy further whittling down aspect though, and that is my need for a date function!
Turning to the near-present, I was in York recently and called in to see my friends at Berrys. I have bought from them over the years and they are happy for me to come in and take a look at new/newish pieces. I then do some writing and credit them for indulging me – a kind of symbiotic relationship if you will! Anyway, on this occasion, amongst the watches presented, were a couple of new Breguet pilot type watches – more or less the same but with aesthetic differences. These in fact replace the 3rd XX/Transatlantique iterations – which ceased in 2018 and 2020 respectively, and appear to be the only versions available now.
Military Flyback Chronograph Type 20 (Ref 2057ST/92/3WU)
This has a 42mm x 14.1mm stainless steel case, with a plain bi-directional bezel with fluting and a lumed triangle at 12 o’clock. The pushers are pump-type and the crown is of a pear shape with knurling. The design harks back to an example as supplied to the French Airforce between 1955-1959. Note that Breguet are calling this the Type 20 as that was the original designation. The later civilian version was called XX.
Here there is a black galvanic dial with large mint green lumed Arabic numerals – pieces missing to make way for other readings. The hands are pencil shaped (almost syringe-like) and also lumed. There are two sub-dials – the 30 minute totalizer at 3 o’clock, and a running seconds dial at 9 o’clock. A date window features at 4.30. The glass is a non-reflective sapphire crystal. Water resistance is noted at 100m.
I suppose the main feature of these new launches is the automatic movement, which is new and features many new technologies. The caliber is 7281 and runs at 36,000 vph, with 60 hours of power. There are 34 jewels and 339 components. In order to maximize the stopwatch function smoothness, it boasts a column wheel and vertical clutch, plus, there is a retour en vol (flyback) function to speed up the action! The balance spring, escape wheel, and pallet-lever horns are all made of silicon, which aside from having anti-magnetic properties, also reduces friction. The rear of the case has a viewing port so all the workings can be admired – as well as some decoration which includes; a sunburst pattern, snailing, bevelling, and circular graining.
In terms of straps, the watch comes with a plain black leather one, plus a fabric NATO type version in black.
Civilian Flyback Chronograph Type XX (Ref 2067ST/92/3WU)
The case and size is the same here, but the bi-directional fluted bezel is now hour-numbered, plus the crown is more conventionally shaped. This design goes back to a specific model from 1957.
Again, there is the black galvanic dial, but the Arabic numerals now are in a vintage ivory hued lume. The hands are different too, being of a dagger shape – lumed too. The sub-dials are different as you now get three. A 15 minute totalizer at 3 o’clock, a 12 hour one at 6 o’clock, then the running seconds at 9 o’clock. The date window is at 4.30 again.
The caliber here is noted at 728 – the slight change due to the extra register I guess. Components are noted at 350, but all other data appears to be the same, so no need to reprise again!
The main strap here is a tan leather, but again with a spare NATO type in black.
Conclusions? Well, I am very taken with both and as such would be hard-pressed to make a choice really. However, if forced to, then it would probably be the Civilian XX version – simply because my IWC and Zenith models are quite similar to the Military 20 model here. Plus, I quite like the cream lume and the extra bits and bobs on display! Price? Both pieces are actually (and oddly) priced the same, at £16,400. To be frank, this is where things start to fall apart somewhat, as when the last Transatlantique 3820 was listed in 2020, it retailed I think for around £10,000 or some $12,000. I have also noted a few for sale at a discount.
Firstly, let me state the obvious. The watches are from a highly regarded and historic brand. They are attractive and of undoubted very good quality. The movement is certainly better than before. However, they are standard production pieces, and there are no precious metals involved. Also, although the movement as a whole is technically new, some of movement’s internal parts and innovations have probably been seen before, as earlier special versions did employ silicon. Some components may also have been lifted from the “parts bin” as of course Swatch own a multitude of brands so there are endless possibilities and cost savings to be had. As such, I feel that the current price is just too much, plus, the potential for wounding depreciation levels is real. So, before one leaps, perhaps consider some alternatives – one worthy competitor being IWC, where you can get excellent chronograph examples new from say £6,000 to £10,000. Obviously, if your heart is set on a Breguet, and it is a one-off grail purchase then fair enough – the price/depreciation aspects may not be too important and the watch will, after all, be brand spanking new. If not, then you may care to do a little research first. As mentioned earlier, I like the two variants a lot and would quite like to own one, however, I will just have to bide my time!
Rating: 3.5/5
Words/Images: The Writer, unless noted otherwise.