Until I came across this watch at James Kibble’s watch shop, I had not seriously considered owning a Bulgari piece. I suppose I had just considered the firm mainly to be a jewellery fashion brand (albeit high end), who back in the day thought that they had better make some watches too. As with many other famous jewellers – initially this was achieved by out-sourcing the manufacture to established brands/watchakers, then selling under their name. That may have indeed been the case some years ago, but for most of these brands today, they make their watches in-house. This is because they now can, as some are of course now part of luxury conglomerates who also happen to own well-established watch names. This is the case here with Bulgari.
The history of Bulgari is interesting. One Sotirio Voulgaris (born 1857) was a silversmith in the Epirius region of Greece. He started his own business making silver jewellery. However, that to be really successful, he would need to move to Italy. This he did in 1881, and in 1884 opened for business in Rome. He Italianised his surname to Bulgari (which became the name of the business too), with the name using the Latin spelling, BVLGARI. Things did prove successful, as in 1904 he opened a prestigious store in the Via Condotti. Up to this point the main design cues were from the Byzantine era, along with Muslim art. This evolved to a more Art Deco bent in the 1920’s and 30’s. In 1932 Sotirio died and left the business to his two sons Giorgio and Constantio. The next big launch in the late 40’s was the Serpenti bracelet watch – a be-jewelled item that curled around the wrist, with a tiny watch hidden in the snake’s head or mouth. Famous people – such as Elizabeth Taylor, Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn, and Ingrid Bergman, were all drawn to this and other jewellery. In 1966 Giorgio’s son Gianni took over running the business, along with a cousin called Marina. Expansion ensued, and in the 1970’s more stores opened, in New York, Geneva, Monte Carlo and Paris. Then in 1977 they ventured into watches, with the name/model Bulgari Bulgari, designed by one Gerald Genta no less. In 1980, Bulgari set up Bulgari Time in Switzerland to make their own watches. In the 1990’s saw a perfume range being launched, along with accessories such as scarves and leather goods. Then in 2000 they acquired the high end watch brands Gerald Genta and Daniel Roth. In 2004, hotels were opened in conjunction with the Marriott group. In 2009 Bulgari celebrated it’s 125th anniversary to much fanfare in Rome. Finally though, in 2011, a decision was made to amalgamate with luxury business empire LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessey) controlled by the Arnault family. In the deal, worth some $6 billion, LMVH acquired a 50.4 stake in exchange for 3% of LMVH stock. Regarding watches, LMVH already owned TAG Heuer, but went on to acquire Zenith, Hublot, and others. Bingo, now more access to some serious watch making expertise was possible!
Bulgari today remains an important part of LMVH’s portfolio. Their high end jewellery is still much liked by the rich and famous – but there is still some at the more affordable end. Watches too cover most types and price points – from around £4,000 upwards, and most (if not all) have in-house movements.
After some further thought I decided to buy the watch, which, incidentally, is a Diagono Scuba GMT (Ref SD38SGMT) that ran from around 2000 for some ten years. The Diagono range (the name corrupted from the Greek agon, which means competition) comprised initially of a time/date piece and was rather like a Bulgari Bulgari cousin in looks. However, other versions ensued – like a chronograph (with GMT), plus this watch, which is a time/date/GMT only model. Most were made in stainless steel, but some were made in 18 ct gold and all had sporting/diving applications. My watch, alas, came with no original papers or box, but did have some service-type papers from 2012. For want of a production date, for the time being I am just going to assume 2005!
The watch case from atop is dominated by the meaty bezel. This is uni-directional and moves with reassuring staccato clicks. There are rounded indentations (which aid grip) and number in red 1,3,5 and so on up to the 24 position, where there is an inverted arrow with a lumed pip. In between these are also five minute segments marked in black. The case is 38mm x 12mm and is lightly brushed, with a variety of buttons sprouting chronograph-like from the sides. At the right side there are two screwed in buttons and these are used to move the main hands in increments. In between is a screwed-in crown with two cube-like guards. The crown is just used to manually wind (if needed) and to adjust the hands in normal use. At 8 o’clock is a similar screwed button that adjusts the date indicator. As expected, there is a solid case back, noting a variety of information – including the model and serial number.
Moving to the dial, this is in black. There is an outer chapter ring that counts hours up to 24. There are then large lumed round pips on each hour – except at 6 and at 12 where there is, well, numerals making up 12! At 6 there is a round register which contains the date calendar, pointed at via a polished steel hand. Around the top of this is some script that informs the wearer that the watch is ” chronometer officially certified”. Under 12 is proclaims BVLGARI, then Automatic. At 9, it is noted that the watch is “GMT 3 Time Zone”, and at 3, “Scuba 200m”. Finally, the two main hands are in polished steel – the hour being sword-shaped with lume, and the minute with an arrowhead with lume. The sweep hand is a thin needle with a lumed lollipop near the end. The extra GMT hand is lumed with a red tip. A sapphire crystal (which appears to have an anti-reflection coating) covers all this.
The movement is a caliber 312. This is an automatic with 21 rubies to smooth everything. Power is some 40 hours and probably beats at 28,800 vph. Although I have Googled greatly, I cannot find any more information about this exact caliber – other than it is probably based on the ubiquitous ETA/Valjoux 7750 chronograph movement (some more feelers have been sent out! Ed). A bit odd, but then I suppose why not use the usual start/stop pushers for different functions – like the hand advance for the GMT here? So, I am thinking that this may be the case, with possibly Bulgari’s own watchmakers making the alterations. The movement – rotor and bridges, have been decorated with perlage and Geneve stripes – although alas not on display. Clearly the caliber was of high enough quality to be chronometer certified – although I am not sure who by. A later version notes via COSC, so surely this one too. Anyway, it seems to run fine – possibly due to the service with Bulgari.
The bracelet is a very attractively designed item, and is attached to the case via large screwed barrels. The bracelet has three segments across it’s width – all brushed, but, as the central one is slightly raised, it has a different appearance. The deployant type clasp folds over to click shut via a rounded knob. It closes quite firmly so will not open by accident, but opening is also easy as it just pulls apart. I had to remove one link for my wrist and this is achieved by punching out the pin, so, for most it would be a jeweller trip. Anyway, the bracelet is fine and comfy.
In conclusion I am very content with the watch. It is in great condition for it’s age, and runs fine. As it is robustly made and designed, it can be used for sports – and moreover diving, plus it has plenty of lume for night use. So, great for taking on holiday and using the GMT function(s) – all three if required! For me the calendar is also useful – although frankly the numbers are rather too small to see without a close peer! Lastly, all this with a chronometer rated engine. The brand is none too shabby too, and all in all, for a bit over a grand I feel it offers astonishing value. So, my initial preconceptions over Bulgari perhaps need revising. This is not just a fashion watch, but a pretty serious bit of kit – period! Oh, and I recently obtained a genuine box in decent condition from a UK jeweller – for only £120!
Rating: 4/5
Words & Images: The Writer