Well, you may well look at this pair of sporting delights from Breguet and say, hang on, haven’t these already been reviewed? Is The Writer losing his mind, or just being cynically lazy? Well, you would be correct with the former question, but not so much the latter!
Okay, the truth is that these watches were reviewed by my good-self – in fact last August. I gave a reasonable rating – although marked them down on the price, which at the time was £16,400. So why now repeat? Well, the main reason is that the two in Berrys’ shop in York, were now sporting bracelets (rather than straps), thus offering a new look. As such, this update is really to show some new images and re-confirm a few points.
As mentioned in my earlier report, the two variants are still more-or-less the same. Their dimensions are the same and the movements almost. As before, the more “dress-like” Type 20 has one less register so it’s movement is very slightly different. All motive features remain as reported before – jewels are down a little at 34 as opposed to 39, and components likewise at 339 from 350. Other internals remain the same – some being of silicon to reduce friction, limit magnetism, and extend service times (such innovations feature in many of the Swatch Group’s watches within their different brands. Ed). Naturally some old-established Breguet patented parts also prevail. On both the rotors are in 18 ct gold (according to the Breguet website. Ed) – something I missed earlier – or maybe simply a new feature (At this point ? Ed).
Below – Type XX (Ref 206777ST/92/SW0) Next below – Type “0 (Ref 2057ST/92/SW0)
As can be seen, the XX is a bit more serious military-wise, with the numbered bezel, extra register, and plainer crown. The Type 20 is simpler and less busy with a coin-edge bezel, one less register, and diamond-shaped crown. The lume colour I feel does not really apply exclusively to either as even classics from the 2nd WW onwards used both hues – so here, one may take your fancy more that the other!
As here, both watches are on the same type of bracelet, but leather and NATO fabric options are available.
A point to note at this time is the fact that these two watches are 42mm, with a depth of 14.1mm. As you will note they do show their size on my “average” wrist, plus, being mainly all steel, are a fair heft. I personally would prefer a 40mm – but they are a comfy fit.
To conclude, as reported before, these are very robust, fine, and attractive watches from one of the leading and oldest brands. Any niggles? Well, I do think that the date is a bit incongruous, squashed in between 4 and 5 and at an angle (and having the Swiss Made script on the side), plus I would like a slightly smaller size option – like Omega and Panerai have opted for with some sports models. Lastly, the price? These chaps now come in at a whopping £20,900. I accept that some increase will be due to the bracelet, and a bit of inflation (and maybe that gold rotor ?) – but £4,500 within a year? Mmm, I do feel that this is a bit much really. Buyers must also accept that if they sell – even after a year or two, depreciation may be cheeky. As such I would certainly press for a discount. Clearly, however, if this is your “grail watch”, never to be sold, then such aspects reduce in importance and it will be a great buy.
Rating: 3.5/5 (remains the same)
All words/images: The Writer
My thanks to Berrys (York)