Before proceeding, I just wish to comment on my watch sale activities. As readers may know, I have been reducing my watch collection over the past year or so, as frankly things were out of control! Numbering at some 50 (well, that’s what I am admitting to) there was no way to wear them all regularly, plus, the dilemma of choosing what to wear was eroding what time I have left on this Earth! There was also the pretty significant sum of money tied up too. Anyway, by and large, this has been successful for one tranche that I gave to James (Kibble Watches). That said, I still have some watches available via the site, plus also some additional pieces that are potentially for sale that are currently not on the site. As such I have noted all available watches on a post under the new “For Sale” tab. For the newly released watches I am content to receive initial enquiries direct, but please note that all will go through James – for a host of good reasons! Although this will probably be of more interest to UK residents, all are feel free to check it out!
Anyway, and somewhat contrary to all the aforementioned, I can still succumb to the odd new buy – especially when it has a “grail watch” flavour to it. This for me was a Franck Muller watch – the Master Banker. But before dealing with the watch specifics, it is worth just outlining the man and the business.
Franck Muller was born in 1958 in Switzerland. He was seemingly not a willing participant at school, as he left at 15 to do a one year course in micro-mechanics, and then a three year course at the Geneva Watchmaking School where he graduated top of the class. After this he worked for the Danish watchmaker Svend Andersen, who had been with Patek for nine years and then started his own brand in 1980 (they are still producing delightful watches. Ed). Muller clearly had exceptional talent, as before long he was working on valuable timepieces at the Patek museum. He also worked on making and designing his own timepieces – some with never-before-seen super complications. In 1991/2 he opened his own manufacture – simply called Franck Muller! He did so with a partner, one Vartan Sirmakes, an Armenian businessman involved with, I have read, case making.
For the next ten years or so, the brand presented a string of attractive and high end complicated watches, coming mainly from the brain and hands of Muller himself. In fact some quite important mechanical innovations were produced – including GMT multi-dials, tourbillon watches – as well as chronographs. The funky “Crazy Hours” dial proved very popular, where the numerals were not only in different bright colours, but were at angles and not in sequence! They also produced the Aeternitas – which at the time had the most complications in a watch! Also, high-end jewellery aspects featured too, with the use of precious stones. In addition, pure jewellery was also available, such as; rings, bracelets, necklaces, and earrings. Business boomed, and by the early 2000’s, numerous movie/pop stars and sports personalities were wearing and endorsing their products. Then suddenly it all went wrong. There were reports questioning the source and quality of components and in the end there was allegedly a big bust-up between Muller and Sirmakes. With that, in 2004, the former simply left one day and did not return!
Although Muller seemingly bowed out of the day-to-day business some years ago, leaving that to his business partner. He is still (apparently) an influence behind the scenes, and one assumes retained a financial interest. The business continues to produce high end inventive pieces, now under the leadership of the CEO, Nicholas Rudaz. Interestingly, when you study the current FM website most of the current offerings are similar in general design to those of over 30 years ago – why reinvent the wheel I suppose! There are today numerous variations of some six models – ranging from; the reasonably affordable – around £7,000 for a time only in stainless steel, to a gold “Crazy Hours” at some £20,000, to full-on tourbillons in gold at well over £100,000. Add some diamonds too, and double that! Incidentally, pieces for ladies are still well catered for also, including jewellery. As already mentioned, there appears to be just one main retailer in the UK, Frost in London.
Anyway, at this juncture, and to be clear, I was not that interested in buying a new FM. Quite simply they have no watches that really appeal to me, plus, the monetary loss on the majority of new watches after a year or two is just so great that it makes no financial sense – especially if you chop and change a bit like me! I do understand that if you are not a collector who moves pieces around all the time, and you are buying your one grail watch, then this aspect won’t affect you much. There is some allure in having a virgin watch on one’s wrist! No, these days I am more interested in buying top-quality, but in used good condition. I can then exude a little smugness over the “value for money” to be had. My experience – which I shall now impart, just proves this!
I had known about Frank Muller watches for some time, but most models were not for me. As usual I wanted something of high quality, yet classic-looking and quietly understated. Also, something with an interesting complication – including my must-have date! All this led me down one path, and that was to the Master Banker, which came out in 1996. This apparently was dreamt up after an international banker client of Muller’s mentioned that he wished he could have a watch with multiple time zones that could be easily read and adjusted. Muller set to and devised the not-straightforward modifications to an existing ETA movement. Also, no copying of the usual unclear pointer hand offerings here, but a watch with no less than three conventional dials – all controlled by one crown which was a first! All this was contained within the already established and attractive Cintree Curvex case shape – more of later on.
Back in the day there were several case material/dial colour variants – but my choice today would be either a yellow or rose gold case, and either a black or silver dial. In the end both of the latter’s won out, as the former is somewhat rarer. In fact, the only gold/black model I could find was in the USA – and pricy too, plus, they would not ship to the UK! Anyway, I found a rose gold/silver dial version in the UK – initially via a watch “supermarket”. It came with it’s box, and although there was the leather document wallet, sadly it contained no papers. The price was certainly one appeal, which at around £5,250, was well over a £1,000 less than the norm. In fact, the average of the six or so I found was more like £7,000! Maybe there was an issue with this one?
So my interest was piqued, but although I have bought via the site once before (from a private individual – again in the UK), and it turned out OK, I was somewhat windy (a family name for nervousness – not flatulence!) about it all. This does increase when I am unable to meet a seller – or see the watch in person due to logistics, but I think I am even more windy these days. So, as the seller was in London (and I could not reach easily at the time), I decided to ask my mate James (Kibble) if there was any way he might investigate for me, and possibly even obtain. Frankly, I was expecting a bit of a no no here, but was pleasantly surprised when he said would be happy to have a go. So, he contacted the business the same day, and got back to me with more information and images. He could buy the watch for £4,850 and sell to me for a flat £5,000. He would be happy just to take the £150 difference as a commission. I agreed to all this and handed the cash over. James then arranged for the seller to come to his office the next day to view in more detail. Anyway, it all went off satisfactorily – the chap also mentioning that the person he had bought it off said it had been recently serviced. There were no papers to prove this, but if so, probably not with FM. However, a timegrapher check seemed to back this up, with near perfect readings – so who knows! Anyway, James did the deal and bought the watch. He then sold on to me – almost as if it was a normal purchase. So, for example, I had his usual warranty and insured postage – plus wisdom! Incidentally, I did offer him a bit more commission, but he refused – mainly due to our past and continuing relationship. Nice one!
Anyway, so what did I buy. Well, it is a rose gold Master Banker – reference 2852 MB. Manufacture date? Well, as I have no original papers I do not really know what this is, however, due to the model reference number (there were later references with subtle changes. Ed) and the middling two digit case serial number, it probably dates from, say, 1998-2000. It may also have actually have been a sort-of limited edition, but I am not 100% sure. The watch – now in my grasping hands of course, is in super condition, with no scratches or marks on the case or crystal. So, the possible service story may be true – although how on earth people lose such valuable papers is beyond me! From more internet gleaning, the watch may have originally cost around £15,000. Today, FM only have a few Master Banker models out, and the nearest to mine (ref 8880MB DT) of a couple of years ago was around some £25,000. So, my comparatively paltry outlay today has secured what was a very expensive watch!
As mentioned earlier, the watch is in 18ct rose gold, with dimensions of some 43mm x 31mm x 11mm. The case is tonneau – so barrel-shaped and curved, and this harks back to the Art Deco period of the 1920s/30s. At that time, a number of watch brands used the same basic shape – Cartier in particular. For FM, it comes under their Cintree Curvex shaped case range – which has included; time/date, chronograpgh, tourbillon, and perpetual calendar variants – plus of course this multi-time zone one. The gold is highly polished all over – save for the solid back which is brushed. This notes the model number, watch number, Swiss hallmarks, plus the FM statement “Master of Complications” – not an idle boast! The crown is just the right size and shape as far as I am concerned, and not only controls the main hand adjustment, but also the two other time zones as well. The date set is semi-quick – the crown not coping I guess with even more demands!
Turning to the dial, this is in silver and has a really beautifully scalloped guilloche pattern. There is an outer minute track (or chapter ring), and then we come to the numerals. These are Arabic, in black, angled, and differ in size depending on the dial position. They really make the dial. The number 3 is sacrificed for the date window, which to my mind is a little too small, and legibility is not helped by the fact that the date wheel seems to be quite recessed. The two time zone sub-dials sit above and below the dial center and are identical. They have fine gold edges and the insides have finely snailed decoration. Their small hands are leaf shaped and heat-blued. The main hands are are also blued, with the hour hand poire shaped, and the minute version a very fine double leaf. The watch has a fine needle seconds hand. This incidentally stops upon time adjustment as there is a hacking feature. In terms of script, around each sub-dial is noted; Franck Muller at the top, and Master Banker for the bottom. Swiss Made is just about readable under 6 o’clock. Aside from the date grumble, the whole dial is just gorgeous!
The motive power comes from a FM caliber 2880 (in fact an FM modified but top quality ETA 2892A2 movement), which boasts 21 jewels, beats at 28,800 vph and offers a 42 hour power reserve. Another FM modification was to use a platinum rotor to bump up the rotational mass – there are those extra dials to power of course. It also has been regulated to chronometer standard (this ETA can be. Ed). I have worn the watch a fair amount since obtaining a few months or so ago, and am pleased to say that it is keeping excellent time – as are the two other little clocks! It is a little odd having a watch with three time zones in synch!
Lastly, the strap. Mine has an original FM alligator strap in dark brown. This is in pretty decent condition so happily I won’t have to fork out the, er, £400 odd FM (or Frost) charge for a new one just yet. There is a simple gold pin buckle with hallmarks on the inside. Although the case is curved, the back is actually flat, but the watch is a very comfortable wear, with the strap holes offering adequate adjustment options.
In summary, and like my Omega “Pie Pan” reviewed recently, I feel quite an affinity with this watch so feel sure it will be a keeper. The watch really is a tour-de-force of watchmaking, being able to move six hands at the same time, plus, having a sweep hand and date to boot. It is actually a bit humbling to actually own one of Franck’s watches! The fact that I also have a Rolls Royce type watch for a Mini price makes the whole position rather more sweeter.
All the above said, whilst I love the watch, I am rather less impressed with the brand. I have made every effort to illicit more information in order to make my review more accurate and interesting – but to no avail! All the more irritating when one considers that in the past I have received direct assistance from the likes of; Patek, Vacheron, IWC, Ebel, Zenith, JLC, Cartier and others! Regarding Frost, I am not that impressed with them either. I initially approached FM direct (under my Watchlogic guise), but they simply referred me to Frost – something incidentally I asked them not to do, as it is almost always more efficient to deal with a brand rather than an agent. Anyway, a manager at Frost did then make contact with me via email a couple of weeks later, and said he would help if I let him know. So, I sent an email back thanking him, and posing half-dozen or so queries – about the firm and my watch. All were, in my view, quite simple/reasonable – but he then replied saying they would have to send them to FM – arghhhh! I then waited and waited, but despite my subsequent enquiries (they never updated me unprompted) Frost maintained that FM simply did not respond to their emails, but apologised and said they would try again. For goodness sake! Firstly, Frost really should have been able to answer at least some of my questions, having dealt principally with this brand for quite a long time. Secondly, they must surely have a go-to person at FM on speed dial (not email) after all these years? If I had been a potential client in their boutique in London, and asking some questions, do you think I would have waited months for replies? Nope, I would be off down the road to an alternative brand. So, as you may appreciate, I have now run out of patience as yet another three weeks plus have elapsed with no word whatsoever – and I expect I will hear no more. I just find the whole thing inexplicable, absurd, and frankly pretty infuriating.
In conclusion, you have presumably now read what I was able to source from usual avenues – plus specific comments on my watch itself. I hope it is all of some interest, but if there are inaccuracies – well I really did try to get the facts from the horse’s mouth! As usual I am always happy to correct any slip-ups discovered later on. All that said, once I have cooled off a bit, I may still attempt to get some more information and papers for my watch at some point. In the meantime, the only thing left to do is to become a banker, then plan some overseas trips so I can use all those time-zone dials!!
Words & Images (unless otherwise noted): The Writer