Before recently acquiring this De Ville at auction (kind of), I only had two Omegas. One is my reduced size Speedmaster Triple Date, and the other is an old early sixties Constellation chronometer. This watch in fact came up recently on my radar a little unexpectedly, when an auction house I sometimes buy from sent me an email inviting offers on unsold items. So, I duly went to the watch section and discovered that the only piece not sold was the De Ville! To be fair, I was slightly acquainted with the watch, as I had read reviews on the model some years ago, plus had studied all lots before the auction day. However, I had decided not to go for it (or anything else) as I was not going to be present, plus, if it edged more towards the upper estimate of £4k, that would be too much. Anyway, I now spoke to my contact and a price was agreed at sub £3k – therefore in total a tad over including commission etc. This to my mind represented a very good buy, as the watch is a 2020 model (so has a higher tested movement than in the original. Ed), and would have cost some £6.5k new. It also had full accompaniments and is like a new pin!
The watch is a reference 433.33.41.21.03.001. So, stainless steel (type 316L), blue dial, and on an alligator deployant strap. The case is 41mm x 12.2mm and of a pretty usual/traditional shape, with flowing modest-sized lugs. However, that’s where the “norm” ends, as the case is in fact in three pieces, with the middle portion being made of sapphire crystal, and as such one can view the inner workings from the sides. To be honest, this is only really in theory, as from a practical point of view one cannot see much that clearly. It is though an interesting and quite complicated feature, and not entirely frivolous – I think!
The watch, when first launched in 2007, was called a Chronometer as it was so rated, and used the all-new 8500 movement. This was in fact the first movement to be specifically designed with a co-axial escapement – first invented by George Daniels decades earlier. The fact that Omega did not take him up on this important innovation at the time is a strange one, but in the end they did! The newer caliber version of a few years ago was the 8900 – essentially the same as the 8500, but as it was also tested by METAS it could then be called a Master Chronometer. This iteration has; 39 jewels, a silicon balance spring, two barrels in series, a free spring balance and bi-directional automatic winding. The watch beats at 25,200 vph and has a useful power reserve of 60 hours. The watch is also, essentially, anti-magnetic. Waterproofing is noted at 100m.
Turning to the dial, this is in an attractive petrol blue, but changes from a dark greyish hue through to a real buzzy blue – depending on how the light strikes it. The central portion has a very fine sunburst, but the outer edge is a raised engraved five line circular segment. There is an outer minute track with sloping baton markers. A tapering shaped date window is at 3 o’clock – very nice. All hands are quite plain in shape and are fashioned out of white gold – there is no luminescence present. here. Overall, the dial is very legible and attractive, enhanced by real 3D at play.
On the reverse is a decent sized exhibition window, secured by four recessed flat head screws. The view is subtle but attractive, with bridges and plates decorated with Cotes de Geneve waves – as is the large bi-directional rotor. There are colour pops, courtesy of some red script, heat-blued screws, and lilac jewels.
Lastly, there is a top-quality blue alligator strap on a deployant buckle. Unlike some brand offerings, this is super-easy to adjust/use and has been comfortable to date.
So, what are my conclusions. The case innovation aside, this is a pretty solid and traditional-looking dress-type watch. It is pleasing to the eye, has a top-quality movement, and is from one of the most iconic of brands. Any downsides? Frankly, not really – aside from the fact that some modest lume would have been useful. Did I really need a watch like this? Well, if I am being honest, no, and confess that it was the price really that drew me in. Getting such a quality, almost-new time piece for less than half price, is something I will always struggle to resist! As such, to my mind, the buy was quite justified. If I choose to sell at some point, I should recoup my outlay if not make a little too. Happy days!
Lastly, I am placing this piece in the “new section”, as although I think the watch is now no longer listed, it only occurred earlier this year.
Words/Images: The Writer